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Half-boned Stays Back

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Description

The back view of my half-boned stays.

Unlike the corsets of the 19th century, which aimed to create an hourglass or wasp-waist figure, the corsets of the 18th century (known as stays in England and here in the colonies) created a smooth inverted cone. They did not accommodate the bust, but rather pushed it in and up. Contrary to modern popular belief, well-made and properly fitting stays are not at all uncomfortable- in fact, I prefer them to bras because they provide so much back support!

This is my first set of stays. They are front- and back-lacing and half-boned with spring steel, with two bones placed in strategic channels (the front diagonal channels and the channels on either side of the eyelets). The foundation layers are cotton canvas, the outer fabric is pea green fustian from 96 District Storehouse, and the lining is a snuff brown linen from fabrics-store.com. The lining is also detachable as seen in period examples, so that it can be replaced if it becomes worn. The seams are double-stitched for extra durability. The stays are bound with green wool tape from Wm Booth Draper, and the binding is handsewn. The eyelets are handsewn with green linen thread. They have no visible machine stitching. They are laced with 1/4" cotton twill tape. I based them on a set of back-lacing jumps (very lightly boned stays) I bought from Village Green Clothier, but I lengthened them because I have long torso and my jumps had a tendency to ride down throughout the day. I also added more boning to better support my bust and back, and made them front- and back-lacing so I can dress myself without help.

The petticoat I'm wearing is made of brown linen from fabrics-store.com. It is knife pleated with a box pleat at the front and an inverted box pleat at the back, and handsewn to linen twill tape waistbands/ties. The shift was made by April Thomas of 18th Century Gowns and the cap is from Scarlet Scarab.
Image size
2592x3872px 2.36 MB
Make
NIKON CORPORATION
Model
NIKON D40X
Shutter Speed
10/6400 second
Aperture
F/6.3
Focal Length
112 mm
ISO Speed
400
Date Taken
Mar 28, 2009, 3:44:10 PM
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